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MISSION FURNITURE

HOW TO MAKE IT

PART THREE


POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS

CHICAGO

POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY

Copyrighted, 1912 BY H. H. WINDSOR


A TABLE FOR THE DEN

The table shown in the accompanying sketch is especially appropriate for the den; it might be used in any other part of the house as well. It may be built of plain-sawed red oak, or of quarter-sawed white oak. The wood should be thoroughly seasoned and devoid of imperfections.

Order the material as follows:

Lay out and cut the circular top first. Next cut the four legs to length. To get the slopes for the ends of the legs and the shoulders of the tenons, lay out a full-sized drawing in pencil and lay the bevel along these lines, adjusting the parts to the lines.

Table Completed

Table Completed

The top horizontals have grooves cut on either side to allow the posts to "set in." This is to give the frame more rigidity. The lower horizontals or stretchers are to be tenoned through the posts and keyed. That the keys may be alike in size, a good plan is to make them first, then make the mortises in the stretchers to correspond. Work the keys to the proper thickness, unless they were ordered so, then to length and joint one edge straight and square. Next lay off across the key the lines A and B of the drawing so that A shall measure 1/2 in. and B 3/8 in. Draw a sloping line through these points and work this edge of the key to size and shape. Round the top of the key as shown. Then mortise, in the tenon, for the key can then be laid out to 1/2 in. for the top opening and 3/8 in. for the bottom.

Detail of a Den Table

Detail of a Den Table

The most satisfactory finish for mission designs, and the easiest to apply, is wax. It is an old finish that was superseded by varnish. Our ancestors used to make wax polish by "cutting" beeswax with turpentine. Cut up the beeswax and add to it about one-third its volume of turpentine. Heat to the boiling point in a double boiler. Or, melt a quantity of beeswax and to this add an equal volume of turpentine. Care must be taken that the turpentine shall not catch fire.

Rapid drying and hardening waxes can be purchased now-a-days. They require a smooth surface and a thin application for a successful result. Too much wax upon a rough surface will produce very ugly, white, chalk-like spottings as the wax dries. These are especially noticeable upon dark finishes. Waxes colored black overcome this, but are not necessary if the ordinary wax is properly applied. 1—Stain the wood, if a very dark finish is desired. 2—If the wood is coarse grained, put on one or two coats of paste filler and rub it off carefully, that a smooth surface may be prepared. Allow the stain 12 hours in which to dry, also each coat of filler. 3—With a soft cloth apply as thin a coating of wax as can be and still cover the wood. Wax is in paste form. 4—Allow this to stand five or ten minutes, then rub briskly with a soft dry cloth to polish. 5—Let stand 24 hours, then apply another coat. 



WINDOW SEAT Fig. 1—The Rough Cedar Box Without the Covering


Mission Furniture

  1. A PIANO BENCH
  2. A LIBRARY TABLE
  3. A PRINCESS DRESSER
  4. A SEWING BOX
  5. A FERN STAND
  6. A WARDROBE
  7. A FINISH
  8. AN OAK TABLE
  9. BOOK TROUGH
  10. AN OAK SERVING TABLE
  11. AN UMBRELLA STAND
  12. A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET
  13. A WRITING DESK
  14. MUSIC RACK AND BOOKSTAND
  15. A DICTIONARY AND MAGAZINE STAND 
  16. A LEATHER BACK ARM CHAIR 
  17. A WALL SHELF
  18. A PEDESTAL
  19. MAGAZINE RACK
  20. A HALL TREE
  21. A TABLE FOR THE DEN 
  22. A BURLAP-COVERED WINDOW SEAT 
  23. QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE 
  24. A SCREEN
  25. A MISSION BOOKRACK 
  26. A ROUND EXTENSION DINING TABLE 
  27. AN ARM DINING CHAIR 
  28. A HALL BENCH
  29. A SEWING TABLE
  30. A SIDE CHAIR
  31. ANOTHER PIANO BENCH 
  32. ANOTHER SCREEN
  33. A FOLDING CARD TABLE 
  34. MAGAZINE STAND
  35. A TABOURET
  36. A PORCH SWING
  37. A FOOT WARMER
  38. A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM 
  39. A MISSION SIDEBOARD 



                                                                

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Written and maintained by
Ronald Hunter
           
  All images and text are copyright Ronald Hunter 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 & 2009.
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