SIMPLE ITALIAN COOKERY
Macaroni and other Pastes
BEEF SOUP STOCK
(_Brodo di Carne_)
1 pound of round of beef
2 quarts of water
2 small, new carrots, or 1/2 of an old carrot
1/2 pound of beef bones
2 small potatoes
1 tomato, fresh or canned
Boil the beef, bones, and vegetables in two quarts of water over a
slow fire--adding pepper and salt. Skim occasionally, and after two
hours add two tablespoons of sherry; then strain through fine
soup-strainer or cheese-cloth. This is the basis of all the following
soups, except when otherwise stated.
To make this stock richer, add a turkey leg to above receipt; boil one
and a half hours, then add one-half a pound of finely chopped beef.
Cook for half an hour longer, then strain.
To make meat jelly, add a little gelatine to the soup stock five
minutes before straining.
To give a good dark color to the stock, add a few drops of "caramel,"
which is prepared in the following manner:
Put three tablespoons of granulated sugar into a saucepan with a
little water, and until the sugar has become dark and reddish; then
add a little more water and boil again until the sugar is melted.
Strain and pour into a bottle when the caramel will keep perfectly for
(_Brodo di Capone_)
This is made like the meat stock, substituting a fowl in place of the
beef and bones.
(_Minestra di Riso_)
2 tablespoons of rice
Cover the rice with water and boil for ten minutes; then drain and add
to the stock (after it has been strained), and boil for five or ten
(_Minestra di Stracciatella_)
1/2 tablespoon of Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon bread crumbs
Beat the egg, yolk and white together; add salt and the cheese,
grated, and the bread crumbs; mix well together and add to the boiling
stock (strained). Stir well with a fork to prevent the egg from
setting, and boil for four or five minutes.
(_Minestrone alla Milanese_)
1/2 quart of stock
2 slices of lean pork, or a ham bone
2 tomatoes, fresh or canned
1 cup of rice
2 tablespoons of dried beans
1 tablespoon of peas, fresh or canned
Put into the stock the slices of pork, cut into small pieces; or, if
desired, a ham bone may be substituted for the pork. Add the tomatoes,
cut into small pieces also, the onions, in small pieces, and the rice.
Boil all together until the rice is cooked. Then add the beans and the
peas and cook a little longer. The soup is ready when it is thick. If
desired, this chowder can be made with fish broth instead of the
stock, and with the addition of shrimps which have been taken from
This dish can be served hot or cold.
(_Brodo di Pesce_)
1 liberal pound of fresh codfish, or any other lean fish for boiling
1 quart of water
Salt and pepper
Boil until fish is thoroughly cooked; strain and serve.
(_Zuppa di Merluzzo_)
Take one-half pound of salt codfish that has been soaked, cut it up
into squares, but not small.
Prepare in a saucepan four tablespoons of good olive-oil, and one
small onion cut into pieces. Cook the onion in the oil over a slow
fire, without allowing the onion to become colored, then add a small
bunch of parsley stems, a small piece of celery, a bay-leaf, and a
small sprig of thyme. Cool for a few moments, then add two tomatoes,
skinned and with the seeds removed, and cut into slices, two
tablespoons of dry white wine, and one medium-sized potato, peeled and
cut into slices, and, lastly, one cup of water.
When the potato is half cooked, add the codfish, then one-half
tablespoon more of olive-oil. Remove the parsley stems, and put in
instead one-half tablespoon of chopped-up parsley; add a good pinch of
pepper, and some salt, if needed. When the vegetables are thoroughly
cooked pour the soup over pieces of toasted or fried bread, and serve.
(_Brodo di Lenticchie_)
3 tablespoons of dried lentils
1/2 tablespoon of butter
2 tablespoons of cream
Cover the lentils with water and boil until they are quite soft. Pass
them through a colander or a sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan,
add the lentils and cream, mixing well, then add a ladleful of the
stock, and boil for a few minutes; then add the rest of the desired
amount of stock, a ladleful at a time.
(_Zuppa alla Primaverile_)
Take some cabbage, carrots, celery, onions, turnips, lettuce, squash,
potatoes, beans, and peas. Chop each into very small pieces, wash and
drain. Take a saucepan, put in a heaping tablespoon of butter; chop up
another small piece of onion and add to butter and fry until onion is
golden; then add all the vegetables, salt, and pepper, and cover the
saucepan. When the vegetables are half cooked, and their juice has
become absorbed, dissolve one tablespoon of tomato paste in one-third
of a cup of hot water, and add. Instead of the tomato paste there may
be added to the onion, before putting in the vegetables, one tomato,
peeled and cut into small pieces. When the tomato is cooked add the
vegetables. Then add water, a little at a time, until you have
sufficient quantity for two persons. Take a slice of bread and cut
into small squares or diamonds--toast or fry as desired--put these
into the soup plates, and pour the soup (without straining) over them.
(_Zuppa di Lattuga_)
1 small lettuce
The leaves of a head of celery
2 tablespoons of peas, fresh or canned
1 heaping tablespoon of flour
Put the potatoes, cold boiled, into the stock when it boils, add the
celery leaves, the lettuce chopped up, the peas, and the flour mixed
well with a little cold stock or water. Boil for one hour and a half,
and serve with little squares of fried bread.
(_Zuppa di Zucca_)
1 slice of pumpkin
2 tablespoons of butter
1/2 cup of water
1-1/2 cups of milk
1 tablespoon of sugar
Peel the pumpkin and remove the seeds, cut into small pieces, and put
into a saucepan with the butter, the sugar, a pinch of salt, and the
water. Boil for two hours, then drain and put back into the saucepan
with the milk, which has been boiled. Allow it to come to a boil, and
then serve it with squares of fried bread.
(_Zuppa alla Provinciale_)
2 large potatoes
3 tablespoons of cream or milk
2 tablespoons of butter
2 yolks of eggs
Boil the potatoes, then rub them through a sieve. Put them into a
saucepan with the butter, a little salt, and the cream or milk. Simmer
until it is thick, then add the yolks of the two eggs to form it into
a paste. Turn out onto the bread-board, cut into small dice, and throw
them into the stock, which must be boiling. If desired, before serving
sprinkle a little Parmesan cheese into the soup.
MACARONI AND OTHER PASTES
MACARONI WITH TOMATO SAUCE
(_Maccheroni al Sugo_)
2 quarts of water
3/4 pound of macaroni
Boil the water until it makes big bubbles. Add salt, then break the
macaroni and put it in. Cover the saucepan and boil for fifteen
minutes. The saucepan should not be too small, otherwise the macaroni
will stick to the bottom.
Prepare the sauce as follows:
Take a good slice of ham fat, and chop very fine with it a piece of
onion, a piece of celery, and some parsley. Then put this into a
frying-pan and cook until the grease is colored. (If desired, add a
small lump of butter.) When well colored add two tablespoons of tomato
paste dissolved in a little hot water. Boil all together for fifteen
Drain the macaroni, and put it into the frying-pan with the sauce, mix
well with fork and spoon over the fire, so that the macaroni will be
thoroughly seasoned, then add three tablespoons of grated Parmesan
cheese, mix again, and serve.
If no tomato paste is available make the tomato sauce as follows:
Chop up fine one-quarter of an onion, a piece of celery the length of
a finger, two or three basil-leaves, and a small bunch of parsley.
Slice seven or eight tomatoes (fresh or canned), add salt and pepper,
and put all on together to cook in four tablespoons of good olive-oil.
Stir occasionally, and when it becomes as thick as cream, strain, and
add the macaroni as before directed.
MACARONI WITH MEAT AND SAUCE
(_Maccheroni al sugo di Carne_)
Take one-half pound of beef without fat. Prepare the ham fat as in the
preceding receipt, chopped up with onion, celery, and parsley. Cut the
meat into several pieces, put it with the fat, etc., into a
frying-pan. Add salt and pepper. Cook until the meat is colored, then
add two tablespoons of wine, white or red. When the wine is absorbed
add two tablespoons of tomato paste dissolved in hot water. (Or tomato
sauce as in preceding.) Boil all together for five minutes, with cover
on the saucepan, then add one cup of boiling water, and allow it to
simmer until the meat is thoroughly cooked--about one-half an hour.
Boil and strain the macaroni as before, and pour over it the sauce
from the meat. Mix well, and serve with the meat in the middle and the
macaroni around it, with cheese (grated Parmesan) sprinkled over it.
This dish can be made with veal or mutton instead of the beef.
MACARONI WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE
(_Maccheroni al Burro_)
Boil and drain the macaroni. Take four tablespoons of table-butter,
three tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese, add to the macaroni in
the saucepan, mix well over the fire, and serve.
SICILIAN MACARONI WITH EGGPLANT
Slice one eggplant and put it under a weighted plate to extract the
bitter juices. Then fry the slices delicately in lard. Make a ragout
of chickens' hearts and livers as follows: Put two tablespoons of
butter into a saucepan, fry the hearts and livers, and when cooked add
two tablespoons of tomato paste, thinned with hot water (or a
corresponding amount of tomato sauce). Cook for fifteen minutes.
Prepare three-quarters of a pound of macaroni, boiled and drained,
then put it into the saucepan with the hearts and livers, add the
eggplant and three tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix well
together and serve.
VERMICELLI WITH OLIVE-OIL AND ANCHOVIES
Take one-half pound of vermicelli, boil in salted water and drain.
While boiling put into a saucepan three anchovies, cut up fine, with
four tablespoons of olive-oil. Fry the anchovies in the oil, then put
the vermicelli into the saucepan, mix well for a few moments on the
fire, then serve.
VERMICELLI WITH OLIVE-OIL, OLIVES, CAPERS, AND ANCHOVIES
Take one-half pound of vermicelli and cover it well with salted water.
Cook for about ten minutes. While it is boiling put into a saucepan
four tablespoons of olive-oil, three anchovies cut up fine with six
olives (ripe ones preferable) and one-half tablespoon of capers. When
these are fried add the vermicelli (well drained), mix well, and put
the saucepan at the back of the stove. Turn the vermicelli over with a
fork every few minutes until it is thoroughly cooked.
VERMICELLI WITH FISH
Boil one-half pound of vermicelli in salted water, drain, and mix with
two tablespoons of olive-oil and a little chopped-up parsley. Then set
to one side to get cool.
Take five smelts, split them, take out the bones, and fry them
slightly in one teaspoon of olive-oil.
Butter a pan and sprinkle it with bread crumbs. Then put into it
one-half of the cold vermicelli. Pour over this some thick tomato
sauce (one tablespoon of tomato paste cooked in two tablespoons of
olive-oil). Then put in the smelts cut in two, some anchovy, a few
capers, and three or four ripe olives chopped up with one mushroom.
Then add the rest of the tomato sauce, then the other half of the
vermicelli, and on top a layer of bread crumbs. Season all well with
salt and pepper. Put the pan into a moderate oven, and cook about an
hour and a quarter, adding a little olive-oil when necessary, so that
it will not dry up too much.
Any fish may be used instead of the smelts, cutting it into thin
SPAGHETTI WITH TUNNY-FISH
While one-half pound of spaghetti is boiling in salted water prepare
the following: Take two ounces of tunny-fish and cut them into small
pieces. Put them into a saucepan and fry them in their own oil. This
oil is generally sufficient, but should it not be, add another
tablespoon of olive-oil. When the tunny have been fried add a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley and four tomatoes, peeled and the seeds
removed, and a pinch of pepper. Let the tomatoes cook thoroughly.
When they are cooked put the spaghetti into the saucepan and move them
about with a fork and spoon until they are thoroughly mixed with the
sauce and the tunny. Then serve.
TIMBALE OF VERMICELLI WITH TOMATOES
Take ten medium-sized fresh tomatoes and cut them in two crosswise.
Put a layer of these into a baking-dish with the liquid side touching
the bottom of the dish. Now put another layer with the liquid side up,
sprinkle on salt and pepper. Break the raw vermicelli the length of
the baking-dish and put a layer of it on top of the tomatoes. Now add
another layer of the tomatoes, with the skin side touching the
vermicelli, a second layer with the liquid side up, salt and pepper,
and another layer of the raw vermicelli, and so on, the top layer
being of tomatoes with their liquid side touching the vermicelli. Heat
three or four tablespoons of good lard (or butter), and when the lard
boils pour it over the tomatoes and vermicelli; then put the dish into
the oven and cook until the vermicelli is thoroughly done. After
cooling a little while, turn it out into a platter.
MACARONI "ALLA SAN GIOVANNELLO"
While three-quarters of a pound of macaroni are boiling in salted
water prepare the following: Chop up fine two ounces of ham fat with a
little parsley. Peel six medium-sized tomatoes, cut them open, remove
the seeds, and any hard or unripe parts, and put them on one side.
Take a frying-pan and put into it one scant tablespoon of butter and
the chopped ham fat. When the grease is colored put in the sliced
tomatoes with salt and pepper. When the tomatoes are cooked and begin
to sputter put the macaroni into the pan with them, mix well, add
grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.
(_Pasta fatta in Casa. Fettuccini_)
2 1/2 cups of flour
3 tablespoons of cold water
1/2 teaspoon of salt
Put the flour on a bread-board. Make a hole in the middle of it, and
break the eggs into it. Add the water and the salt, and mix all
together with a fork until the flour is all absorbed and you have a
paste which you can roll out. Then take a rolling-pin and roll it out
very thin, about the thickness of a ten-cent piece. Leave it spread
out like this until it has dried a little. Then double it over a
number of times, always lengthwise, and cut it across in strips about
one-half inch wide. Boil two quarts of salted water, and put the
ribbons into it, and cook for ten minutes, then drain. Serve with the
meat and sauce as in receipt for Macaroni with Meat and Sauce, or with
the tomato sauce and cheese only, as desired.
RAVIOLI WITH MEAT
Prepare the paste as in the preceding receipt.
Take whatever meat is desired--chicken, turkey, or veal--this must
always be cooked. (Left-over meat may be utilized this way.) Chop the
meat very fine, add one tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese, one egg,
a dash of nutmeg, a dash of grated lemon-peel, one tablespoon of
butter, cold. Mix these ingredients in a bowl. Take a teaspoon of the
mixture and put it into the extended paste, about two inches from the
edge. Take another spoonful and put it about two inches away from the
first spoonful. Continue to do this until you have a row of
teaspoonfuls across the paste. Then fold over the edge of the paste so
as to cover the spoonfuls of mixture, and cut across the paste at the
bottom of them. Then cut into squares with the meat in the middle of
each square; press down the paste a little at the edges so the meat
cannot fall out. Continue to do this until all the meat and the paste
are used up.
Put the little squares of paste and meat into the boiling salted water
a few at a time, and boil for ten minutes. Serve with tomato sauce, or
butter and grated Parmesan cheese.
RAVIOLI WITH BRAINS
Take one lamb's brains and parboil in slightly salted water for five
minutes. Put into a bowl with a small quantity of curds, one egg, salt
and pepper, dash of nutmeg, and a little grated Parmesan cheese, and
mix all together. Then put by teaspoonfuls on the paste as in
preceding receipt. Cook for ten minutes in boiling salted water, and
serve with tomato sauce.
RAVIOLI OF CURDS AND SPINACH
1 small bunch of spinach
1/2 pound of curds
Cook the spinach, drain, and chop up fine, add the curds, one egg,
salt and pepper, dash of nutmeg, and a little grated cheese. Add to
the paste, and boil as before.
These ravioli can be used also as a dessert by preparing them as
Take 1/2 pound of flour
1 tablespoon of butter
2 tablespoons of lard
Work this into a paste and roll out thin.
Take one-half pound of curds, add one egg, and the yolk of a second
egg, two tablespoons of granulated sugar, a few drops of extract of
vanilla. Mix well together and add to the paste as before. Then fry in
lard until a golden brown. Serve with powdered sugar.
TIMBALE OF MACARONI
Take a small piece of ham fat, one-half of onion, piece of celery,
parsley, small piece of carrot. Chop up fine together. Put into a
saucepan, and when the vegetables are fried add two or three mushrooms
which have been chopped fine; after five minutes add two tablespoons
of tomato paste, thinned with five tablespoons of hot water (or equal
quantity of tomato sauce without water). When the sauce is cooked take
out the mushrooms and put them on one side.
Take one-half pound of macaroni. Boil in salted water for fifteen
minutes, drain, and add the sauce described above. Add two tablespoons
Parmesan cheese, grated, and one tablespoon of butter.
Butter well a mold, then cover with a thin layer of bread crumbs the
bottom and sides. Pour into the mold one-half the macaroni, then place
on it a layer of mushrooms which you have taken out of the sauce. Now
add the other half of the macaroni, and then another thin layer of
bread crumbs. Put the mold into the oven without turning it over, and
bake in a slow oven until well browned. Then turn out and serve.
To this timbale, if desired for variety, cold meat of any kind cut up
fine may be added to the sauce; and one egg, hard boiled, and cut into
four pieces. Add the egg, and the pieces of meat which you have
removed from the sauce, to the timbale at the same time that you add
This timbale is made in the same way as the preceding one, only
substituting rice for macaroni. One-half cup of rice.
TIMBALE OF RIBBON MACARONI
This is prepared as the two preceding ones, using Ribbon Macaroni
instead of rice or ordinary macaroni.
RICE WITH PEAS
1/2 cup of rice
Grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons of butter
1 small onion
Chop the onion up fine and put it into the saucepan with one-half the
butter (one tablespoon). Cook until the onion is brown, then pour on
the rice (raw) and fry until the rice is dry. Then add hot water, a
ladleful at a time, taking care not to let the rice boil too hard, as
it will then become hard in the middle and floury around the edges.
When the rice is cooked, put the saucepan at the back of the stove,
and add the rest of the butter. Before taking off the stove add a
little grated Parmesan cheese and the peas, which have been prepared
Take a small piece of ham fat, one-half small onion, and some parsley.
Chop together fine, add three tablespoons of olive-oil, salt and
pepper, and put into a saucepan on the fire. When the onion is colored
add one can of green peas (or fresh peas, according to season). When
the peas have absorbed all the olive-oil add a sufficient quantity of
broth to cover them (or water) and cook until peas are soft. Then mix
the peas with the rice, add one tablespoon of Parmesan cheese, and
RICE "ALLA ROMANA"
(_Risotto alla Romana_)
A small piece of ham fat
1 stalk of celery
2 mushrooms canned, or 1 fresh mushroom
1/3 pound of lean beef
Chop these ingredients together and put them into a large saucepan
with a small piece of butter. Cook until the meat is well browned.
Then add one tablespoon of red or white wine. Cook for a few minutes,
then add one tablespoon of tomato paste dissolved in a little hot
water, or two and one-half tablespoons of the other tomato sauce. Cook
well, adding from time to time a little water--one-half cup in all.
Wash the rice (a little less than a cupful), add it to the other
ingredients in the saucepan, and cook for about twenty minutes, until
the rice is soft, adding more water from time to time. Then add two
tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese, mix well, and serve, with more
cheese if desired.
RISOTTO "ALLA NOSTRALE"
Take a small piece of onion, slice into small bits, and put into a
saucepan with two tablespoons of butter. Cook until onion is browned.
Wash well one-half cup of rice. Put it into the saucepan with the
onion, add salt and pepper, and fry until the rice is dry. Then take
one and one-half tablespoons of tomato paste, thinned with hot water
(or two tablespoons of other tomato sauce), and add to the rice.
Little by little add hot water until the rice is cooked through (about
one cup of hot water). Then add grated cheese, Parmesan or Gruyere,
one and one-half tablespoons of butter, and mix well over the fire,
This rice can be served alone or with fried sausages, or with cold
chicken, or any left-over meat prepared in the following manner:
Take one and one-half tablespoons of butter in a saucepan. Cut the
cold meat into slices, and add them to the butter. Fry well, then take
one and one-half tablespoons of tomato paste, thinned in water (or
three tablespoons tomato sauce). Add to the meat a little at a time.
Simmer for one-half hour, then put into the middle of hot platter,
surrounded by rice, and pour this sauce over all. Add a handful of
grated Parmesan cheese to the rice.
This preparation of meat can be served with macaroni or corn-meal
instead of the rice.
RICE WITH BUTTER AND CHEESE
(_Riso in Bianco_)
Take one-half cup of rice. Boil in salted water. After twenty minutes
of boiling take off the fire and drain. Then put the rice back into a
saucepan with three tablespoons of grated cheese (Parmesan) and three
tablespoons of butter. Mix well and serve as an entree, or around a
plate of meat..
RICE WITH TOMATOES
Boil a cup of rice soft in hot water. Shake it now and then, but do
not stir it. Drain it, add a little milk in which a beaten egg has
been mixed, one teaspoon of butter, and a little pepper and salt.
Simmer for five minutes, and if the rice has not absorbed all the
milk, drain it again. Put the rice around a dish, smooth it into a
wall, wash it over with the yolk of a beaten egg, and put it into the
oven until firm. Take the strained juice and pulp of seven or eight
tomatoes, season with pepper, a little salt and sugar, and one-half of
a chopped-up onion; stew for twenty minutes, then stir in one
tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of fine bread crumbs. Stew
three or four minutes to thicken, and then pour the tomatoes into the
dish, in the middle of the rice, and serve.
RICE WITH TOMATOES "ALL' INDIANA"
Wash a cup of rice and boil it. Take seven or eight good-sized
tomatoes, boil and strain them, and season with salt and a little
allspice. Take a baking-dish and put into it alternate layers of
tomato and rice, finishing off with a layer of tomato, covered up with
grated bread crumbs moistened with melted butter. Bake in a moderate
oven for a good half-hour.
RISOTTO WITH HAM
Cut into small pieces one ounce of raw ham, fat and lean. Chop up fine
a small piece of onion, and put it with the ham into a frying-pan with
one-half a tablespoon of butter. Fry slowly until the ham and onions
are golden. Then add one-half cup of uncooked rice; when it has cooked
for a few minutes, add twice its height of bouillon (or water), salt
and pepper, a dash of nutmeg, and mix well and allow it to boil for
twenty minutes over a good fire. Then take off the stove, add two
tablespoons of butter and two tablespoons of Parmesan cheese grated;
mix well and serve.
RICE WITH MUSHROOMS
10 mushrooms if canned, or 5 or 6 if fresh ones
3/4 of a cup of rice
Chop up a little onion, parsley, celery, and carrot together, and put
them on the fire with two tablespoons of good olive-oil. When this
sauce is colored, add two tablespoons of tomato paste, thinned with
hot water (or a corresponding quantity of tomato sauce). Season with
salt and pepper. Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, and add them to
the sauce. Cook for twenty minutes over a medium fire. Put on one
side and prepare the rice as follows:
Fry the rice with a lump of butter until dry; then add hot water, a
little at a time, and boil gently. When the rice is half cooked (after
about ten minutes) add the mushrooms and sauce, and cook for another
ten minutes. Add grated Parmesan cheese before serving.
3/4 of a cup of yellow Indian meal (fine)
3 cups of water
Put the water into a granite or iron saucepan, add salt. When it
begins to boil add the Indian meal, little by little. Keep stirring
constantly as you pour it in, to prevent lumps. Boil for one-half
hour, stirring constantly over a moderate fire. If desired, a little
more water may be added if preferred not so thick. Add grated cheese
Put one pinch of salt and one tablespoon of sugar into a cup of milk,
and put it on to boil. As soon as it boils pour in, little by little,
one-half scant cup of fine Indian meal, stirring constantly with a
wooden spoon. Allow it to boil gently for twenty minutes.
Take it off the stove, add one level tablespoon of butter and the yolk
of one egg and a little grated lemon-peel. Beat up well to mix the egg
and butter. Then turn the mixture onto the bread-board, which has been
dampened; spread it out to the thickness of a finger. Allow it to
cool, then cut into squares or diamonds or little rounds, dip these
into egg and then into the bread crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard,
a few at a time. Sprinkle with sugar, and serve hot.
POLENTA "ALLA TOSCANA"
2 cups of Indian meal
3 pints of cold water
Put the water on, and when it boils add salt. Then add the Indian
meal, little by little, stirring all the time. Allow it to boil over a
moderate fire for one-half hour, stirring constantly. When the meal
has become quite stiff, take a wooden spoon and dip it into hot water,
and with it detach the Indian meal from the side of the saucepan, then
hold the saucepan for a moment over the hottest part of the fire,
until the Indian meal has become detached from the bottom. Then turn
it out onto the bread-board; it should come out whole in a mold. Let
it stand a few moments to cool. Then with a wire cut it into slices
about the thickness of a finger. Place these slices on a hot platter
in a layer; pour over them a good meat gravy and grated cheese; then
put on another layer of the polenta, and add more gravy and cheese,
and so on, until your polenta is used up.
POLENTA WITH CHOPPED SAUSAGES
Prepare the Indian meal as in the preceding receipt.
Take four Deerfoot sausages (or two, if a larger variety of sausage),
remove the skins, chop fine, then fry in butter. When they are a nice
brown add one tablespoon of stock, and two tablespoons of tomato paste
thinned with hot water (or a corresponding amount of the tomato
Cook for fifteen minutes more. Then cut the polenta in slices as in
preceding receipt and add the chopped sausages with their sauce and
grated cheese, in layers as before.
CHICKEN WITH POLENTA
Take a small chicken; clean and prepare it. Take a slice of ham fat
four fingers wide and one finger long (or one tablespoon of good
lard). Chop up very fine with a chopping knife, and put into a
good-sized saucepan. Take one-half an onion, a small carrot, a piece
of celery, and cut all into very small pieces and add them all to the
fat. Then put in the chicken, the salt, pepper, and a pinch of
allspice, and cover the saucepan. Cook until the chicken is covered,
basting with the grease, and turning the chicken until it is brown on
all sides; then add one-third of a glass of red or white wine. When
the wine has become absorbed, add one tablespoon of the tomato paste,
dissolved in a cup of hot water (or a cup of tomato sauce not too
thick). Cook for a few moments more--until the chicken is thoroughly
Prepare the Indian meal as in receipt for Indian meal, and serve the
chicken surrounded by the Indian meal, with the sauce poured over all
and grated cheese sprinkled over the Indian meal.
Pigeon may be prepared in the same way as the chicken and served with
the Indian meal; or either one may be served instead of the Indian
meal with rice, as in receipt for Risotto alla Nostrale; Macaroni, as
in receipt for Macaroni with Butter, or Ribbon Macaroni, as in receipt
3/4 of a cup of Indian meal
1 quart of milk
Boil the milk, and add the Indian meal, a little at a time, when milk
is boiling, stirring constantly. Cook for one-half an hour, stirring
constantly. Add salt just before taking off the fire. The Indian meal
should be stiff when finished. Turn it onto the bread-board, and
spread it out to the thickness of two fingers. While it is cooking
prepare a meat sauce, and a Bechamel sauce as follows:
Take a small piece of beef, a small piece of ham, fat and lean, one
tablespoon of butter, a small piece of onion, a small piece of carrot,
a small piece of celery, a pinch of flour, one-half cup of bouillon
(or same amount of water), pepper. Cut the meat into small dice; chop
up fine together the ham, onion, carrot, and celery. Put these all
together with some pepper into a saucepan with the butter, and when
the meat is brown, add the pinch of flour, and the bouillon a little
at a time (or the water), and cook for about one-half an hour. This
sauce should not be strained.
Take one tablespoon of flour, and one tablespoon of butter. Put them
into a saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon until they have become a
golden-brown color. Then add, a little at a time, one pint of milk;
stir constantly until the sauce is as thick as custard, and is white
in color. If it grows too thick, a little more milk may be added; or
if it is too thin, a tiny lump of butter rolled in flour will thicken
Now take the cold Indian meal and cut it into squares about two inches
across. Take a baking-dish of medium depth, butter well, then put in a
layer of squares of Indian meal close together, to entirely cover the
bottom of the dish. Sprinkle over it grated cheese; then pour on the
top enough meat sauce to cover the layer (about two tablespoons), then
on the top of this add a layer of Bechamel sauce. Then put another
layer of the squares of Indian meal, sprinkle with grated cheese as
before, add meat sauce, then Bechamel sauce, and continue in this way
until the baking-dish is full, having for the top layer the Bechamel
sauce. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and bake until it is a
golden brown on top.
(_Migliaccio di Farina Gialla_)
2 cups of coarse Indian meal
1/2 cup of raisins
1/2 teaspoon of salt
3 teaspoons of sugar (granulated)
3 tablespoons of lard
Mix the salt, sugar, and raisins with the Indian meal in a bowl, then
pour in boiling water, a little at a time, and stir well with a wooden
spoon until you have a stiff paste and no dry meal remains sticking to
the bottom of the bowl.
Then take a cake-tin and grease it well with one-half of the lard.
Then turn out the Indian meal into the pan, and even it out with the
wooden spoon. Spread on the top of this the rest of the lard, softened
slightly so as you can spread it easily. Cook in a slow oven until a
golden brown. Serve hot.
GNOCCHI OF FARINA
(_Gnocchi di Semolina_)
1 pint of milk
1/2 cup of farina
Butter and cheese
Put the milk on, and when it boils add salt. Take a wooden spoon and,
stirring constantly, add the farina little by little. Cook for ten
minutes, stirring constantly. Take off the fire and break into the
farina one egg; mix very quickly, so that the egg will not have time
to set. Spread the farina onto the breadboard about the height of a
finger. Allow it to cool, then cut it into squares or diamonds about
two or three inches across. Butter well a baking-dish, and put in the
bottom a layer of the squares of farina; sprinkle over a little grated
Parmesan cheese (or Gruyere), and put here and there a small dab of
butter. Then put in another layer of the squares of farina; add cheese
and butter as before. Continue in this way until your baking-dish is
full, having on the top layer butter and cheese.
Bake in a hot oven until a brown crust forms. Serve in the
GNOCCHI OF POTATO
Take six medium-sized potatoes and put them on to boil in their
skins. When they are done, peel them and pass them through a fine
colander. Add a little salt. Take one cup of flour, and mix on the
bread-board with the potatoes until they form a paste. Roll this paste
with the hands into a sausage about the thickness of three fingers.
Cut this roll across into pieces about an inch long. Press these
pieces lightly with the finger or the handle of the knife, so they
will take little cup-shaped forms. Leave these to one side, and put
two quarts of salted water on to boil. When it boils add the gnocchi a
few at a time, until all are in the water. When the gnocchi rise to
the surface of the water, take them out with the skimmer. Put them
into a platter a few at a time, adding each time gravy and cheese, and
covering them well. Put a layer of grated cheese sprinkled on top.
Serve with meat, or as a first course.
GNOCCHI OF MILK--A DESSERT
1 cup of milk
1 level tablespoon of powdered starch
2 or 3 drops of vanilla extract
2 yolks of eggs
2 tablespoons of sugar
Put all these ingredients together into a saucepan and mix together
with a wooden spoon for a few moments. Then put onto the back of the
stove where it is not too hot, and cook until the mixture has become
stiff. Cook a few moments longer, stirring always; then turn out onto
a bread-board and spread to a thickness of a finger and a half. When
cold, cut into diamonds or squares the width of two fingers. Butter a
baking-dish, and put the squares into it overlapping each other. Add a
few dabs of butter here and there. Put another layer of the squares in
the dish, more dabs of butter, and so on until the dish is full. Brown
in the oven.
ROUX FOR SAUCES
Roux is necessary to thicken and give body to sauces. Put one
tablespoon of flour and one of butter into a saucepan and cook until
the flour has lost any raw taste. Then put the saucepan on the back of
the stove and add slowly the stock or milk, one cup for every
tablespoon of butter or flour, and stir until smooth. For white sauces
take care the flour does not color; for dark sauces let it brown, but
take care it does not burn.
AGRO DOLCE SAUCE
Take two tablespoons of sugar (brown or white), one-half a cup of
currants, a quarter of a bar of grated chocolate, one tablespoon of
chopped candied orange, one of lemon-peel, one of capers, and one cup
of vinegar. Mix well together and let soak for two hours; pour it over
venison or veal, and simmer for ten minutes.
BECHAMEL SAUCE NO. 1
Put two ounces of butter and two tablespoons of flour into a saucepan
and stir for five minutes. Pour one and one-half pints of boiling milk
gradually in, beating well with a whisk. Add some nutmeg, a few
peppercorns, a pinch of salt, and some chopped mushrooms. Cook for
one-quarter of an hour, and rub through a fine sieve.
BECHAMEL SAUCE NO. 2
Mix three tablespoons of butter and three of flour to a smooth paste,
put some peppercorns, one-half an onion, one-half a carrot sliced, a
small piece of mace, two teacups of white stock, a pinch of salt and
of grated nutmeg, in a stew-pan; simmer for one-half an hour, stirring
often, then add one teacup of cream; boil at once, and strain and
TOMATO SAUCE NO. 1
Take ten fresh tomatoes, remove the skins, cut them up; put them into
a saucepan and boil them until soft. Then pass them through a sieve.
Put their juice into a saucepan with one heaping tablespoon of butter
or one-half tablespoon of good lard, salt and pepper, and boil again,
adding water if the sauce becomes too thick. This sauce can be kept in
a bottle for several days. It can be used for macaroni, etc., in place
of the tomato paste.
TOMATO SAUCE NO. 2
Mince one-quarter of an onion, one-half a stalk of celery, a few
leaves of sweet basil, and a bunch of parsley up fine. Add one-half
cup of olive-oil, a pinch of salt and one of pepper, and cut eight or
nine tomatoes into slices. Boil until the sauce is as thick as cream,
stirring occasionally, then strain through a sieve and serve.
TOMATO SAUCE NO. 3
Take four pounds of tomatoes, cut them in two, and put them into a
two-quart saucepan with two wine-glasses of water, two saltspoons of
salt, one of pepper, cover the saucepan, and boil for forty minutes,
stirring often to prevent burning; then strain. Make a roux in another
saucepan with one ounce of butter and three-quarters of an ounce of
flour. Cook for three minutes, mixing well. Take roux off the fire,
and pour the tomatoes into it a little at a time, stirring to keep it
smooth. Add two wineglasses of stock, put on the fire, and cook for
twenty minutes, stirring all the time.
Take eight ounces of butter, one tablespoon of salt, one of pepper,
and two tablespoons of lemon juice. Stir with a wooden spoon over the
fire until the butter is half melted, then take it off and continue to
stir until it is quite liquid. By taking the butter off the stove
before it is all melted it will have a pleasant taste of fresh cream;
this is all lost otherwise.
Put two tumblers of white roux and one of chicken jelly into a
saucepan, reduce, and add three yolks of eggs mixed with two ounces of
butter and the juice of one-half lemon. Before it boils take the
saucepan off the fire, and add one tumbler of thick tomato sauce (see
Sauces, page 30), strain, and just before serving add one tablespoon
of sweet herbs minced fine.
"ALLA PANNA" SAUCE
Melt one-half a pound of butter, add a little flour, salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg. Stir until thick, then add one pint of cream, a little
chopped parsley, and heat for five minutes.
Put into a saucepan one pound of beef and one-half an onion chopped up
with three ounces of lard, some parsley, salt, pepper, one clove, and
a very small slice of ham. Fry these over a hot fire for a few
moments, moving them continually, and when the onion is browned add
four tablespoons of red wine, and four tablespoons of tomato sauce (or
tomato paste). When this sauce begins to sputter, add, little by
little, some boiling water. Stick a fork into the meat from time to
time to allow the juices to escape. Take a little of the sauce in a
spoon, and when it looks a good golden color, and there is a
sufficient quantity to cover the meat, put the covered saucepan at the
back of the stove and allow it to simmer until the meat is thoroughly
cooked. Then take out the meat, slice it, prepare macaroni, or any
paste you desire, and serve it with the meat, and the sauce poured
over all, and the addition of butter and grated cheese.
Take one-half of an old onion and chop it up fine. Take one small
carrot, wash it, scrape it, and cut it into transverse slices; do the
same with a stalk of celery, some parsley, and one fresh or canned
mushroom. Then take a slice of ham (raw if possible), fat and lean,
about four fingers wide and one finger high. Chop it up fine, and put
it into a medium-sized saucepan with one tablespoon of butter. When
the ham is colored, put in the chopped-up vegetables, one clove, salt,
and pepper, and stir constantly, allowing the vegetables to cook
thoroughly but not to burn, which will destroy the taste of the sauce.
It should be a golden color. A little red wine may be added if you
have it, but this is not necessary. Then add four fresh tomatoes, cut
into several pieces, the skins removed, and the seeds taken out. Allow
these to cook in the sauce until they sputter, then add a little water
(or bouillon if you have it), allow it to boil for a few moments more,
then take it off the fire and pass it through a sieve or fine
colander, pressing hard so that all will pass through. If it is too
thick after straining, add water or bouillon, and put it back and
allow it to boil again a few moments. This sauce can be used for
macaroni, gnocchi, left-over meat, egg, etc. The success of the sauce
depends upon the proper frying of the onion in it.
HOT PIQUANTE SAUCE
Chop up fine two ounces of lean ham and a small piece of onion, add a
little celery, the stalks of parsley, one clove, one-half tablespoon
of pepper, and one-half bay-leaf. Pour over these ingredients a scant
one-half cup of vinegar. Cover the saucepan and allow it to boil until
it has consumed one-half. Put into another saucepan one-half cup of
bouillon (or water in which you have dissolved one tablespoon of
extract of beef). Allow it to boil, and then thicken with a teaspoon
of potato flour which has been diluted in a little cold water. Drop
this, little by little, into the saucepan until you have gained the
required thickness for the sauce. Then pour in the boiled vinegar,
passing it through cheese-cloth. Mix well together and add a teaspoon
of French mustard, some capers, and some chopped-up pickles. Serve hot
with meats or tongue. The pepper should predominate in this sauce.
PIQUANTE SAUCE WITH EGG
Take some anchovy paste--one tablespoon, two tablespoons of chopped
parsley, some capers and chopped pickles, one teaspoon of French
mustard and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Work this all together
into a paste, then add three tablespoons of olive-oil and two or three
of vinegar and a pinch of salt and pepper. This sauce is good with
both meat and fish.
EGGS WITH PEAS
Take one and one-half cups of green peas, and cook them with one and
one-half tablespoons of good butter, and a pinch of salt. Take four
hard-boiled eggs, cut them in two lengthwise, and put them on a
platter; pour over them the peas as a sauce.
EGGS "ALLA MILANESE"
Hard boil four eggs, cut them in four pieces each, put them in a
platter, and pour over them the following sauce:
CREAM OF LEMON SAUCE
Take one cup of cold water, and pour one-half of it in a bowl with one
tablespoon of starch, stir well until starch is dissolved. Pour the
other one-half onto one heaping tablespoon of powered sugar and boil
for a few moments--until sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Allow it to
cool, and then add the starch, and one cup of milk, a pinch of salt, a
little grated lemon-rind, and two yolks of eggs. Mix all thoroughly,
then strain through a sieve, then put on the stove again, and over a
moderate fire, stir it constantly, always in the same direction, until
it has assumed the thickness you desire.
EGGS "ALLA SCIARMANTE"
Hard boil four eggs; cut into several pieces. Then prepare the
Boil down to a syrup one heaping tablespoon of sugar, rind of
one-quarter of lemon, one scant cup of water, and a little piece of
cinnamon. Then remove the lemon-rind and the cinnamon, and add one cup
of milk or cream. When heated through, take off of fire, and add the
yolks of four eggs, beating well together. Then pour the sauce over
the hard-boiled eggs in a shallow baking-dish, put it in a very
moderate oven, and bake. Before serving squeeze on a little lemon
juice and garnish with squares of fried bread.
EGGS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE
Chop up fine one pickled pepper, one teaspoon of capers, one-half
small pickled onion and one pickle, and some parsley. Dissolve in
boiling water one tablespoon of butter, add the juice of one-half of
lemon, a pinch of flour to give a little body, and the chopped
pickles. If too sour add some sugar.
Hard boil four eggs, cut them in four, and pour over them the sauce.
EGGS "ALLA MONACHILE"
Hard boil four eggs, divide them in half, and pour over them the
following sauce: Put two tablespoons of vinegar into a saucepan and
one tablespoon of sugar (brown or white), fifteen almonds chopped up
fine, and a small piece of candied citron. Let it boil for a little
while, then add a pinch of cinnamon, cloves, pepper, and salt, and if
too acid add a little water.
Before taking off the stove add a little flour to give body to the
sauce. Pour over the eggs and serve.
EGGS "ALLA FIORENTINA"
Hard boil four eggs. Let them cool in a bowl of cold water. Peel them
and divide them in half. Take the yolks and mix with them one heaping
tablespoon of butter, one tablespoon of Parmesan cheese grated, and a
little salt and pepper. Put this mixture into a saucepan with the
yolks of two raw eggs, and one-half of the white of one egg. Stir well
until the mixture becomes thick. Then fill the hard-boiled whites of
the eggs with the stuffing; if any stuffing remains over, spread it on
the platter under the eggs. Then put one-half cup of milk in a
saucepan with one-half tablespoon of butter and one-half tablespoon of
flour, salt, and pepper. Boil for a few moments, stirring well, then
pour over the eggs, sprinkle well with grated Parmesan cheese, and put
in the oven and brown.
Butter a baking-dish and put in the bottom of it slices of stale bread
(brown bread is better than white) which have been dipped in milk.
Then put in a layer of very thin slices of Gruyere cheese. Take two
eggs, beat them up to a froth, add salt and pepper, pour them into a
baking-dish on top of the bread and cheese, then put it in the oven
until it is browned on top. Serve hot.
EGGS "ALLA PIACENTINA"
Take the whites of four eggs, and beat until stiff. Then add the yolks
and one rounded tablespoon of melted butter, and a little salt and
pepper. Take a small baking-dish, butter it well, and put in the
bottom a layer or two of very thin slices of cheese, Parmesan or
Gruyere. Put into the oven for a few moments until thoroughly heated,
then pour on the whites of eggs mixed with the other ingredients, put
back in the oven, and serve when the eggs are a golden brown.
EGGS "ALLA BENEDETTINA"
Roast two small peppers, take off their skins, remove the seeds, and
cut into strips. Take two tomatoes (not too ripe), boil them, remove
the skins and seeds, and cut into thin strips also. Then wash two
anchovies, remove the bones, and cut also into strips. Take a small
baking-dish, put in the strips of peppers and tomatoes and the
anchovies. Add two tablespoons of good olive-oil and put on the top of
the stove until the ingredients boil. Then break into the dish four
eggs, taking care to keep the yolks whole. Add salt and pepper, and
put the dish into the oven until the eggs are cooked.
EGGS "ALLA ROMANA"
Beat four eggs, whites and yolks together. Add one tablespoon of milk
or cream, salt and pepper, one tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese,
and a little chopped-up parsley. With this make three or four
omelettes about the thickness of a ten-cent piece. As the omelettes
are finished lay them on a napkin to cool; then cut them transversely
into strips about one-quarter of an inch wide. Then put the strips
into a saucepan with some heated butter. Heat them through thoroughly
and serve with grated cheese and the following meat sauce poured over
Chop up some ham fat with a little onion, celery, carrot, and parsley.
Add a small piece of beef and cook until beef is well colored. Then
add one and one-half tablespoons of red wine (or white), cook until
wine is absorbed, then add one tablespoon of tomato paste diluted with
water, or four fresh tomatoes, and boil fifteen minutes.
CODFISH "ALLA GIARDINIERA"
Take one pound of salted codfish, boil it, remove the skin and bones,
and shred it. Then take one good carrot, one-half a turnip, scrape
them, cut them into slices, and boil them for a few moments. Then
drain off the water, and put them into a saucepan with one and
one-half tablespoons of butter and finish cooking them, adding from
time to time a little boiling water. When the vegetables are cooked
add the codfish, mix well, and serve.
CODFISH WITH EGG SAUCE
Take one pound of salt codfish. Boil it and remove the skin and bones.
Then fry lightly in butter, adding chopped-up parsley, salt, and
pepper. Stir about constantly, and add from time to time a little
boiling water, until the fish is thoroughly cooked. Then beat up the
yolks of two eggs and add them with a little flour, and cook for a few
moments more. Squeeze on some lemon juice and serve.
CODFISH "ALLA MARINAIA"
Take one pound of salt codfish. Boil slightly until you can remove the
skin and bones. Chop up fine a piece of onion, and parsley, and fry
them in a saucepan with three tablespoons of best olive-oil, then put
in the codfish with salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice. While this
is cooking, put into another saucepan three tablespoons of best
vinegar, two tablespoons of fish broth, and one-half bay-leaf. Add a
little flour to give body to the sauce, stir well, then remove the
bay-leaf, and take the saucepan off the fire. Arrange the platter with
pieces of fried bread in a layer on the bottom, then the codfish, and
then the sauce poured over it.
FRESH CODFISH "AL VINO BIANCO"
Remove the bones from three-quarters of a pound of fresh codfish. Cut
into slices lengthwise. Butter a baking-dish, put in the fish, put
more butter on top of it, salt and pepper, and one-half glass of dry
white wine. Cook for twenty minutes in a hot oven, then place the fish
on a platter, take the juice left over in the baking-dish, put it into
a saucepan, add a little flour, some more butter, and the juice of
half a lemon. Before taking off the fire, add some chopped-up parsley,
and then pour the sauce over the fish, and serve.
CODFISH WITH GREEN PEPPERS
Take one-half pound of salted codfish which has been soaked to remove
the saltiness. Remove the skin and bones, and cut the codfish into
small squares. Then dip it again into fresh water, and put the squares
onto a napkin to dry. The fish may either be left as it is, or before
proceeding, you may roll it in flour and fry it in lard or oil.
Then take two good-sized green peppers, roast them on top of the
stove, remove the skins and seeds, wash them, dry them, and cut them
in narrow strips. When this is done put three generous tablespoons of
olive-oil into a saucepan with one onion cut up small, and fry the
onion over a slow fire.
Take two big tomatoes, skin them, remove the seeds and hard parts, and
cut them into small pieces. When the onion has taken a good color, add
the tomatoes, and cook until they sputter, then add the peppers and a
little salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick add a little water.
When the peppers are half cooked, add some chopped-up parsley and the
codfish. Cover up the saucepan and let it simmer until the fish is
This dish is also good cold.
ONIONS "ALLA PARMEGIANA"
Take six onions. Take out the centers with an apple-corer and fill
them up with the following stuffing: One tablespoon of grated Parmesan
cheese mixed with two hard-boiled eggs and chopped parsley. Boil them
first, then roll them in flour and fry them in olive-oil or butter.
Then put them in a baking-dish with one-half tablespoon of grated
Parmesan cheese and one tablespoon of melted butter. Put them in the
oven and bake until golden.
ONIONS "ALLA VENEZIANA"
Take six small onions, remove the centers with an apple-corer. Boil
them for a few moments, drain them, and stuff them with the following:
Take a piece of bread, dip it in milk, squeeze out the milk, and mix
the bread with one tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese, the yolks of
two hard-boiled eggs. Mix well together, then add some fine-chopped
parsley, a pinch of sugar, salt and pepper, and the yolk of one raw
egg; mix again well, and then stuff the onions with the mixture. Then
dip them in flour and in egg, and fry them in lard. Put them on a
platter and serve with a piquante sauce, made as follows: Chop up fine
some pickles, capers, and pickled pepper, and add one-half cup of
water. When these are cooked, add one tablespoon of butter and cook a
little while longer, then pour over the onions and serve.
LIMA BEANS WITH HAM
Take three-quarters of a pound of lima beans, very tender young ones.
Put them in boiling water for about five minutes to whiten them. Then
put into a saucepan one heaping tablespoon of butter, some chopped
parsley, and one small onion chopped up fine. When the onion is fried,
add three ounces of raw ham, also chopped up. When the ham is fried
put in the lima beans, and a little while before they are cooked add
two or three tablespoons of stock. Serve with dice of fried bread.
FRIED SQUASH, PARSNIPS, CELERY, AND MUSHROOMS
Take two small squash, the smallest size possible; cut off the two
ends, divide them in two, and slice them in fine slices lengthwise.
Put them in an earthen dish and sprinkle well with salt. Take one
parsnip, scrape it, wash it, and boil it slightly, slice it, add it to
the squash with more salt. Take the heart of celery, boil for a
moment, and slice as with the other vegetables. Lastly, take some
mushrooms, not very large ones, clean them, boil them a moment, and
add them to the rest. Then dry all the vegetables with a clean towel,
mix them all together, roll them thoroughly in flour, dip in egg, and
fry in hot lard, dropping them in carelessly. Serve them in a hot
dish with a napkin under them.
PUMPKIN "ALLA PARMEGIANA"
Take a slice of pumpkin, remove the rind and the seeds, cut into
square pieces, and then slice these into slivers about the thickness
of a ten-cent piece. Boil these for a moment in salted water, drain
and put them into a saucepan, and fry in butter, with a little salt
and a pinch of allspice. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese and melted
butter. Or, if preferred, when the pumpkin is fried, put it in a
baking-dish, add thin slices of cheese (Parmesan or Gruyere), and put
it into the oven until browned.
Take a slice of pumpkin, remove the rind and the seeds. Cut it into
strips as for French fried potatoes, only finer. Roll in flour and dip
in egg, and fry in boiling lard or olive-oil.
If desired as garnishing for meat, cut the pumpkin exceedingly fine,
roll in flour, but not in egg, and fry.
SPINACH "ALLA ROMANA"
Clean and prepare the spinach. Put one pint of cold water with one
tablespoon of salt on to boil, and when it boils put in the spinach.
When the spinach is cooked--in about ten minutes--drain it in a
colander, and turn onto it the cold water from the faucet for a few
moments. Then squeeze out all the water with the hands. Put three
tablespoons of olive-oil into a frying-pan; when this is thoroughly
hot add the spinach, salt, and pepper. Cook for a few moments,
stirring well with a fork and spoon, so the oil will permeate the
spinach; then serve. Do not chop the spinach.
Wash the spinach in several waters, put it in a covered saucepan on a
good fire. Stir now and then to prevent burning, and after fifteen
minutes add one tablespoon of salt. Cook five minutes more; drain and
squeeze out the water. Then chop up very fine. Put into a saucepan one
generous tablespoon of butter, three-quarters tablespoon of flour,
stir, and when they are half cooked, add the spinach and a little salt
and pepper. Cook for five minutes, then pour in four or five
tablespoons of cream, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Take a
cup of spinach, prepared as above, beat up the yolk of one egg, mix it
with the spinach, and stir over the fire until the egg is set; then
let it cool, and before serving stir the well-beaten whites of three
eggs lightly into it. Fill china cups or buttered papered forms half
full, put them into a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve
at once. If too little baked or not served at once, the souffle will
SPINACH "IN RICCIOLI"
Boil the spinach and pass it through a fine colander. Beat up two
eggs, add salt and pepper, and mix enough spinach into them to make
them green. Put a little olive-oil into a frying-pan, and when it is
thoroughly heated (but not boiling), pour a little of the egg, turning
the pan about so that the pancake should be as thin as a piece of
paper and dry. Toss if necessary. Take it out; repeat with the rest of
the egg. Then take the pancakes, place them one on top of the other,
and cut them into pieces the width of a finger and about two inches
long. Fry them in butter, and grate a little Parmesan cheese over
them. They make a very nice garnish.
SPINACH IN A MOLD WITH MUSHROOMS
Boil the spinach for a few moments, drain, squeeze out the water, then
pound it well, and pass it through a fine colander. Put it into a
saucepan with a lump of butter and a few drops of lemon juice. Let it
boil for a few moments, then turn it into a dish and allow it to cool.
When cold mix with it the beaten-up yolks of two eggs. Put them into a
buttered mold, leaving an empty space in the middle. Bake in a slow
oven for about an hour. When cooked turn it out onto a dish, and fill
up the empty space with mushrooms, which you have prepared as follows:
Wash and clean a sufficient quantity of mushrooms and put them into a
saucepan with a good-sized lump of butter, a little flour, salt, and
pepper. Cook over a brisk fire for ten minutes. Moisten well with
chicken broth or stock, and add some roux made as follows: Put one
tablespoon of flour and one of butter into a saucepan, and cook until
the flour has lost all raw taste. Then add stock or milk as desired,
slowly--one cup for every tablespoon of butter or flour--and stir
until smooth. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon on the mushrooms, put
them with their sauce into the spinach, and serve.
FLAN OF VEGETABLES
Wash, chop up fine, and boil several vegetables, a potato, some
spinach, a carrot, and a small beet, etc., then boil them again in a
saucepan with some stock; then add a half a cup of cream or milk, stir
well together, take them off the stove, and let them cool. When cool
add the yolks of two eggs, some grated cheese, and the whites of the
eggs beaten up. Put the vegetables into a mold which has been well
buttered and lined with bread crumbs, and cook in the oven.
LETTUCE IN THE OVEN
Take several young lettuces, wash them and remove their wilted leaves,
tie the tops together, and lay the lettuces side by side in a
baking-pan and pour in one and one-half inches of stock. Cover the
pan, and put it in a moderate oven for one-half an hour, adding stock
when necessary. Place a fork under the middle of each lettuce, raise
and drain, and lay them doubled up on a hot dish. Season the gravy in
the pan with butter, salt, and pepper, thicken with one beaten egg,
and pour it over the lettuce. Serve hot.
CUCUMBERS "ALLA TOSCANA"
Peel and blanch three or four cucumbers in boiling salted water for
five minutes. Drain and cut them into pieces one inch thick and put
them into a frying-pan with one ounce of butter, a little flour, and
one-half pint of veal broth, stir well, and add some salt and pepper.
Reduce for about fifteen minutes, stirring until it boils, add one
teaspoon of chopped parsley, one-half a teaspoon of grated nutmeg,
one-half a cup of cream, and the beaten-up yolks of two eggs. Put on
the fire again for three or four minutes. Do not let boil, and serve
CAULIFLOWER "IN STUFATO"
Remove the outer leaves and clean a fine cauliflower. Cut it into
several pieces and wash them well with cold water, put them into a pot
of boiling salted water, and cook quickly for twenty or thirty
minutes, until they are quite tender. Take them out without breaking,
and place them on pieces of buttered toast, then put some butter in a
frying-pan, add a little flour mixed with some stock, stir well until
it boils, then add several finely chopped mushrooms, and cook a little
more. Take it off the fire, and add the yolks of two eggs which have
been well beaten, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the juice of one
lemon. Pour this sauce over and round the cauliflower, and serve. The
sauce must not be boiled after adding the eggs.
Cut off the green leaves, and cut the stalks of the celery in pieces
about an inch long. Wash them and then put them into boiling water for
fifteen minutes. Then dry on a napkin. Beat up an egg with a little
stock, or hot water, add salt and pepper, dip the celery in, then roll
it in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard.
CELERY WITH TOMATO SAUCE
Cut off the green leaves, clean and wash the celery stalks, and then
throw them into boiling water and boil fast for twenty minutes.
Drain, dry well, put them on a dish, and pour a pint of tomato sauce,
or tomato paste diluted with hot water, over them.
TOMATOES "ALLA PIEMONTESE"
Take four rather unripe tomatoes of about the same size, put them into
boiling water and boil for a few minutes. Cut off the stem part, and
take out some of the inside with as many seeds as you can. Fill them
with boiled rice and some mushrooms chopped up small. Pour over them
the yolks of two eggs, place them in the oven to color; serve hot.
TOMATOES "ALLA SPAGNUOLA"
Take three or four large ripe tomatoes and boil them. Lay them on a
sieve to drain until wanted, and then pass them through a fine hair
sieve. Put them in a stew-pan and stir until all the liquid is
evaporated. Then add a small piece of butter and three or four raw
eggs, stirring them quickly with the tomatoes. When the eggs are
cooked, turn all out into a dish and serve hot.
TOMATOES WITH EGGS
Choose round tomatoes of about equal size and peel them. Cut off their
tops, take out their insides, and drop a raw egg into each, replacing
the top as cover. Put the tomatoes in a baking-dish and bake for about
ten minutes, until the eggs are set. Serve up in the baking-dish very
hot, with Bechamel sauce (see Sauces, page 29), or some brown gravy.
Scald, peel, and slice eight tomatoes. Squeeze out three-quarters of
their juice into a bowl through cheese-cloth, and put it to one side;
then chop up the pulp of the tomatoes with two tablespoons of bread
crumbs, a little salt, sugar, and pepper, and a tablespoon of melted
butter. Pour them in a buttered mold, place the mold in a double
boiler, and put on the cover, and boil hard for one hour. Then turn
out on a dish. Meanwhile take the juice of the tomatoes, season with
sugar, salt, and pepper, mix in one tablespoon of butter rolled in
flour. Boil one minute, then pour over the pudding and serve.
STRING-BEANS "IN FRICASSEA"
Cut off the ends and string some young string-beans. Cook them in
salted water, then drain them well. Put them in a saucepan with some
butter, parsley, and chopped onion. Be careful to add occasionally
some broth if the beans dry up before they are completely cooked. Boil
slowly, and a few moments before taking them off the fire add the
yolks of one or two eggs (according to the quantity of beans) well
beaten up with a little water, the juice of a lemon, and some grated
Parmesan cheese. Stir from time to time, and never allow them to boil,
or the eggs will set. To keep the beans a good color put a pinch of
soda into the water with the salt.
STRING-BEANS WITH TOMATOES
Take some young string-beans, cut off the ends, and string them. Wash
them in cold water, drain, and while still wet put them into a
baking-dish with some good olive-oil, some chopped onion and parsley,
salt, and pepper. Put the dish on the fire with its cover on, and cook
slowly. As the beans dry add the juice of some tomatoes, or some good
tomato conserve. Take care they do not burn.
FRIED BREAD WITH RAISINS
Take some rather stale bread, cut it into slices, removing the crust.
Fry the bread in lard, and then arrange it on a platter; meanwhile
prepare the raisins as follows: Take a small saucepan and put into it
two tablespoons of good raisins, a good slice of raw ham chopped into
small pieces, and a leaf of sage, also chopped up, one tablespoon of
granulated sugar, and two tablespoons of good vinegar. Put these
ingredients on the fire, and as soon as you have a syrup (stir
constantly) pour the raisins onto the pieces of fried bread, and the
sauce over and around them. Served with cold meat these are very nice.
FRIED SWEETBREADS, CROQUETTES, LIVER, ETC.
(_Fritto Misto alla Romana_)
Golden Bread, Brains, Sweetbreads, Croquettes of Chicken and Veal and
Eggs, Calf's Liver and Pumpkin--all these different ingredients should
be fried each in its own manner as follows, a small quantity of each,
and served all together on one platter with slices of lemon.
Choose bread which is elastic, but has no holes in it. Remove the
crust and cut it in slices about one inch thick, and from these slices
cut little pieces about three inches long and about one inch wide.
Trim them off well, so they will not be ragged or uneven. Put these
pieces into a bowl and throw on them some boiling water, then remove
them immediately and throw them into a big bowl of cold water. This
operation should be done quickly, so as to make the bread feel the
impression of heat and cold, one directly after the other. Then take
the bread between the hands and gently squeeze out the water without
breaking the pieces or deforming them. Place them on a napkin to dry.
Then dip them in egg which has been beaten up and seasoned with salt
and pepper. Allow the egg to soak well into the bread. Fifteen minutes
before serving put a frying-pan on with a quantity of lard, and as
soon as the lard is lukewarm put in the pieces of bread, turn them as
soon as they harden a little on one side. The bread must fry very
slowly, and should remain on the fire at least ten minutes, so that
the heat can penetrate gradually into the middle and make it light.
This bread to be successful should be hollow inside like a fritter
when finished. When the bread has taken a good golden color, remove
from the lard, drain it on a napkin, add a little salt, and serve very
Parboil the sweetbreads, then cook them with one tablespoon of butter
and one tablespoon of stock. When cooked cut them into smallish
pieces, season with pepper, chopped-up parsley, and one tablespoon of
lemon, then roll them in flour; dip into egg and fry.
Take one lamb's brain, or one-half of a calf's brain, put it in a
saucepan with cold water, change the water from time to time for a
couple of hours, until the brains are thoroughly cleansed. Then put
them in another saucepan with fresh water, and with several pieces of
onion, a little salt, a little vinegar (one tablespoon to each brain),
and some parsley stems. As soon as the water boils, take the saucepan
off, remove the brains, and put them onto a napkin. Cut them into four
pieces, put these pieces onto a plate, and season with a little
olive-oil, some lemon juice, and chopped parsley. When you are ready
to fry, roll in flour, dip in egg, and fry the brain over a moderate
fire for seven or eight minutes in olive-oil, lard, or butter.
CALF'S LIVER FRIED
Remove the skin, and cut into slices large but thin, roll in flour,
dip in egg, and fry in boiling lard, allowing them to remain in the
frying-pan only a couple of minutes; then drain on a napkin, sprinkle
on a little salt, and serve.
Boil one-half cup of corn-meal rather hard, and before removing from
the fire add a piece of butter and a little grated cheese and mix
well. Take it then by spoonfuls and let it fall onto a marble-top
table, or a bread-pan which has been wet a little with cold water.
These spoonfuls should form little balls about the size of a hen's
egg. On each of these croquettes place a very thin slice of Gruyere
cheese, so that the cheese will adhere to the corn-meal. Then allow
them to cool, and when cold dip into egg, then into bread crumbs, and
fry in boiling lard.
Hard boil two eggs, remove the shells, dry them, and cut the eggs in
minute pieces. Put one tablespoon of butter into a saucepan, and when
it is melted add one and one-half tablespoons of flour; stir
constantly for a few moments over a slow fire with a wooden spoon,
taking care that the flour does not color. Then pour in one-third of a
cup of milk, in which you have put salt and pepper. Cool this sauce
for eight or ten minutes, stirring continually to make it smooth, then
remove from the fire, put in the chopped-up egg, some parsley chopped
fine, and one-half tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese. When you have
mixed these ingredients well together, spread them out on a plate or
marble and allow to cool. When this has become cold and hardened, with
a wooden spoon divide it into little portions about the size of a nut.
Take these and roll them in dried bread crumbs and a little flour.
Roll them all then, one at a time, with a rotary motion, and then
elongate the balls until they are the shape of ordinary corks, then
dip the croquettes into the egg, one at a time, then into bread crumbs
again, and a few moments before serving fry in boiling lard. As soon
as they are colored remove them immediately from the lard, otherwise
they will break to pieces.
Polenta Fritters, Fried Pumpkin, Fried Squash, and Parsnips may also
be added or substituted if desired.
LITTLE FILETS "ALLA NAPOLITANA"
Butter well a frying-pan, and sprinkle over the bottom a piece of lean
ham (raw if possible) chopped up fine. Then a layer of mushrooms
chopped fine, then a layer of minced parsley. The bottom of the pan
should be entirely covered with these three ingredients. Then from a
filet of beef cut some little slices, about one-half an inch thick and
round in shape. Put these in the frying-pan, one piece near the other,
so the bottom shall be covered. Sprinkle on salt and pepper, and put
it on the fire. When the filets are cooked on one side, turn them over
on the other, but with care, so the ingredients at the bottom of the
pan will stick to the meat. When the filets are cooked on both sides,
squeeze on the juice of half a lemon, and add a little meat stock. Put
the filets on a platter, and pour over them their sauce, and serve
with croutons (fried bread).
INVOLTINI OF BEEF "ALLA SICILIANA"
Take three-quarters of a pound of beef, two ounces of ham, one
tablespoon of butter (or one-half tablespoon of lard), some bread,
some parsley, and a piece of onion. Chop up the onion fine and put it
in a saucepan with the butter (or lard). When it is colored, put in
the parsley and the ham cut up into little pieces, at the same time
add the bread cut up into three or four small dice, salt, pepper, and
a dash of nutmeg. Mix all together well. Cut the meat into six slices,
pound them to flatten out; salt slightly, and when the other
ingredients are cooked, put a portion on each slice of meat. Then roll
up the meat like sausages, put them on skewers, alternating with a
piece of fried bread of the same size. Butter well, roll in fresh
bread crumbs, and broil on the gridiron over a slow fire. These are
nice served with salad.
POLPETTONE "ALLA NAPOLITANA"
Take three-quarters of a pound of lean beef without skin or bones from
the rump-steak, flatten it out with a knife in a manner to widen it
without tearing the meat. Salt and pepper it. Then take one and
one-half ounces of ham, fat and lean, and chop it up fine with a
little piece of onion, some parsley, and some thyme, then add twice
its volume of fresh bread crumbs (which have been dipped in water and
squeezed out). When the bread has been well mixed add the yolk of one
egg and mix again well, spread this mixture all over the surface of
the beef, leveling it off with a knife. Then sprinkle on a few
raisins, and then roll up the meat like a cigar, but bigger in the
middle than at the ends. Tie it up then, crosswise and lengthwise, and
brown it in a saucepan with a little lard and some ham. As soon as it
colors add some chopped-up pieces of onion, celery, carrot, and one
clove. When these vegetables are cooked add several pieces of tomato,
and let the meat simmer for about two hours, basting it now and
then. When the meat is cooked remove the string, place the polpettone
on a platter, strain the sauce through a sieve, pour it over the meat,
Cut up the meat, lamb, veal, mutton, or fresh pork into pieces about
two inches wide. Sprinkle on salt and pepper and put them aside. Then
cut an equal number of pieces of bread about one-half inch thick, and
a little bit bigger then the pieces of meat. Next cut pieces of ham,
fat and lean, the same size as the pieces of meat, but double the
number. Then take a skewer (or two if one is not sufficient), and put
on it first a piece of bread, then a piece of ham, then a leaf of
sage, then one of the pieces of meat, then another leaf of sage, then
the ham, then the bread, and so on in this order, having always the
meat between two leaves of sage, two slices of ham, and two pieces of
bread. Coat everything well, and especially the bread, with olive-oil
or melted butter, and then broil them over a hot fire for a good
one-quarter of an hour, turning them constantly until they are colored
a golden brown and are crisp. If preferred, these can be cooked in the
oven. Put them on several wooden skewers, and lay them in a pan and
cook until brown and crisp. Serve with lettuce salad.
MEAT WITH RIBBON MACARONI
Take a piece of ham fat, one finger high and four fingers wide, chop
up fine with a piece of onion, piece of celery, piece of carrot, and
put into a saucepan. Take three-quarters of a pound of meat, either
lamb, veal, beef, or fresh pork, cut it into several pieces, salt and
pepper it, and put a pinch of allspice, then put it into the saucepan;
cook it until it is well colored, then add two tablespoons of red or
white wine. When it is absorbed add one tablespoon of tomato paste,
dissolved in water, or tomato sauce of fresh tomatoes (receipt Tomato
Sauce No. 1). Cook over a moderate fire, one hour longer if the meat
is veal or lamb, and one and one-half hours to two hours for pork or
beef, adding water if necessary.
This meat can be served with Ribbon Macaroni. Put the meat in the
middle, the macaroni around it, and the sauce over all, adding two
tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese to the macaroni after it is
boiled, and mixing well before putting it on the platter. Sprinkle on
a little more cheese before carrying to the table.
This dish can be made equally well with left-over meats of any kind,
turkey being especially good served this way.
SALAD "DEL PREVOSTO"
Boil in their skins three good-sized potatoes, peel them and slice
them, then put them into a salad bowl, and pour over them one-half a
glass of white wine. Do this about two or three hours before they are
wanted, so the potatoes will have time thoroughly to absorb the wine.
From time to time mix them with a fork and spoon to let the wine
permeate. A few minutes before the meal make a good French salad
dressing, add some pickled peppers cut up, some capers, and some
chopped-up parsley, pour on the French dressing, mix up well, and
THE CARDINAL'S SALAD
Wash a good lettuce and a bunch of water-cress. Cut a cold boiled beef
into strips, add six radishes, two hard-boiled eggs chopped up, and
one small sliced cucumber. Arrange the lettuce-leaves in a salad-bowl,
mix the other ingredients with a sufficient quantity of mayonnaise
sauce, put them in the midst of the lettuce, and serve.
Take a head of endive, wash it and dry it well, and put it into a
salad-bowl. Pour over it three tablespoons of good olive-oil. Mix one
tablespoon of honey (or sugar), one of vinegar, and salt and pepper in
a cup, and pour over the salad just before serving.
Cut one carrot and one turnip into slices, and cook them in boiling
soup. When cold, mix them with two cold boiled potatoes and one beet
cut into strips. Add a very little chopped leeks or onion, pour some
sauce, "Lombarda" (see Sauces, page 31), over the salad, and garnish
"ALLA POLLASTRA" SALAD
Chop up six lettuce-leaves and three stalks of celery, cut up the
remains of a cold fowl in small pieces, and mix with one tablespoon of
vinegar and salt and pepper in a salad bowl. Pour a cup of mayonnaise
sauce over, and garnish with quarters of hard-boiled egg, one
tablespoon of capers, six stoned olives, and some small, tender
"ALLA MACEDOINE" SALAD
Cut into small pieces one cold boiled beet and half an onion. Add some
cold boiled string-beans, some cold boiled asparagus tips, two
tablespoons of cold cooked peas, one cold boiled carrot, and some
celery. Mix them together, and pour over all a mayonnaise sauce. Add
the juice of a lemon and serve.
Take twenty good chestnuts and roast them on a slow fire so that they
won't color. Remove the shells without breaking the nuts, and put them
into a saucepan with one level tablespoon of powdered sugar and
one-half glass of milk and a little vanilla. Cover the saucepan and
let it cook slowly (simmer) for more than a half-hour. Then drain the
chestnuts and pass them through a sieve. Put them back in a bowl with
one-half a tablespoon of butter, the yolks of three eggs, and mix well
without cooking. Allow them to cool, and then take a small portion at
a time, the size of a nut, roll them, dip them in egg, and in bread
crumbs, and fry in butter and lard, a few at a time. Serve hot with
CHESTNUTS "ALLA LUCIFERO"
Take forty good chestnuts and roast them over a slow fire. Do not
allow them to become dried up or colored. Remove the shells carefully,
put them in a bowl, and pour over them one-half a glass of rum and two
or three tablespoons of powdered sugar. Set fire to the rum and baste
the chestnuts constantly as long as the rum will burn, turning the
chestnuts about so they will absorb the rum and become colored.
PEACHES WITH WINE
Take four very ripe peaches, cut them in two, take out the stones,
peel them, and cut them in thin slices. Put them in a bowl and cover
them up until wanted. Put in a saucepan one glass of red wine, two
tablespoons of powdered sugar, a piece of cinnamon, and a piece of a
rind of lemon. Boil these together, and then pour the liquid over the
peaches in the bowl while still boiling. Cover the bowl, and allow it
to stand for at least two hours. Then turn into the dish in which you
will serve the peaches and the wine.
Put into the saucepan one pint of red or white wine, the first
preferred. Add two heaping tablespoons of sugar, a piece of rind of
lemon or orange, and a small stick of cinnamon. Put it onto the fire
and stir until the sugar is dissolved. When the wine boils, strain it
through some cheese-cloth and pour it into glasses, and serve hot.
MILK OF ALMOND ICE
Take one half pound of almonds. Remove the shells and skins, and put
them into a large receptacle of cold water. Add three bitter almonds
to the number. Remove them from the water, and pound them up in a
bowl, adding from time to time a little water. Then add more water and
put them into a cheese-cloth and wring it, to extract all the juices
you can. Then pound them some more, adding water, and squeeze out as
before. To the milk you have extracted from the almonds add four
tablespoons of powdered sugar and one-half tablespoon of orange water;
put into the freezer and freeze.
If desired, you can put half the quantity of almonds and the other
half of cantaloup seeds, pound together, and proceed in the same
manner. This combination is refreshing and delicious.